Paignton to Brixham

30/6/12 We were expecting to find some pubs in Brixham on this leg, so we had a lift to TVP and then train to Paignton. We arrived before 11 and walking from the station towards the pier, we passed pubs already open. Along the harbourside was the Pier Inn. By now it was 11, but there was no sign of life.

Whether to wait or visit when we returned to Paignton in the evening? We walked on around the headland and then saw the Inn on the Quay.

Two pints of Tribute (4.3%) for £6.40 were nice enough in this Brewers Fayre family pub. We then decided to return to the Pier Inn, which was still not open, but a couple of pasties later it was. However no real ale and we had to settle for a John Smiths and Thatchers for £6.40.

Then we were able to get walking for a while. We started following the steam railway line, pass some sandy beaches, around Churston Point and then arrived at the quiet Elberry Cove.

Then it was into the woods for the walk to the outskirts of Brixham. We could smell it first, then see the harbour wall, then we had to guess which way to go, before arriving in the town itself.

The Sprat and Mackerel was a bit bare inside. We settled for a Westons Cider and John Smiths for £6.50. The barman kindly turned up the good juke box for me. Next door was the Crown and Anchor. A few more locals in this one. We went for their own Crown and Anchor (4%) and a Bays Topsail (4.3%) for £6.30. They had stopped doing food, but allowed us to bring in some chips from next door.

Next was the Rising Sun (behind the Golden Hind replica). Two pints of Doom for £5.60. They turned the juke box down when I went on it here. In front of the Golden Hind is the Old Market House. We weren't sure whether it was a pub, but I wasn't driving. A pint of Tribute PA (4.2%) and Dartmoor (3.5%) for £7.10. Next door was the Bullers Arms. We had pints of Tribute (4.3%) and Bullers (4.2%) for £6.60. The staff weren't sure which beer was on which pump however and they didn't want the juke box on. We managed to walk a few hundred yards further before coming across the Prince William.

Another place that didn't feel like a pub. We sat outside and had pints of Proper Job (4.5%) and Brixham Trawler (3.5%) for £6.80.

Time for a bit more walking as we rounded Berry Head and on to St. Mary's Bay before heading back to Brixham town centre, the bus to Paignton and on to the train to TVP via Newton Abbot again.

Maidencombe to Paignton

20/6/12 A midweek Berry's trip. The nice coach driver dropped us at Maidencombe Cross between the scheduled drop-offs in Teignmouth and Torquay. As we descended towards the coast path, it was trying to rain, but soon gave up. The path continued as it had from Shaldon, up and down the wooded combes with few flat sections. As we approached Babbacommbe, the path turned inland towards the village. However, no sooner did we reach the main road, then we headed off down another combe, under the cliff railway and down towards the beach.

At the far end of the deserted beach, the Cary Arms came into view. A hotel/restaurant as much as well as a pub, we had a pleasant Devon Coast IPA (4%) and Bays Topsail (4%) for £7 on the terrace overlooking the bay. The path continued through woods, around a few headlands, past a few more quiet beaches, through the outskirts of Torquay towards the harbour.

We were unsure how many pubs would be on the path in Torquay and were therefore mindful of the time we had to catch the coach back. As we passed Living Coasts, we spotted a Harvester tucked away. It wasn't what some might call a pub, but it did have a sign claiming to be one. Two pints of Old Speckled Hen (4.3%) for £5.90 were alright though. The path then went over a footbridge, avoiding the town and offered this view back to the pub on the harbourside in front of Living Coasts nets.

We now had to up the pace to reach Paignton and fortunately there were no pubs. The path followed the busy coast road and enabled us to make up time. As we approached the pier, we could see pubs on the other side of the green, but eventually we spotted this.

The Flagship is what it says, a family pub, and seemed to be more like a pub than the last place. Bays Devon Dumpling (5.1%) and Gold (4.3%) for £6.50 were our reward for getting there on time. We even had time for pasty each as the rain finally arrived before we boarded the coach home.

Starcross to Maidencombe

16/6/12 First decision of the day was whether to drive to Digby and Sowton or Starcross. Alighting the train at Starcross, we wondered along the platform to the ferry jetty to ensure that we weren't cutting any corners. From there we could see the first pub of the day.

We crossed the railway line and walked to the door only to see a sign saying that it didn't open until 12. We knew that Cockwood was only half a mile away and so went there instead.

Fortunately, the Anchor Inn was open. A pint of Discovery (3.8%) and Broadside (4.7%) for £6.70 tasted good for early pints in a pleasant pub. We were the only ones inside the pub, but we still managed to sit on a table that was reserved for the next guests to arrive. So then we went back to the Galleon Inn. We arrived just after 12 to a locked door. A pasty later it was open. Two pints of Doom (4%) for £6.60. We then headed back past the Anchor as the rain started.

They seem to have invested in a new signposted cycle/footpath along this road, but on entering Dawlish Warren the signs stopped. We assumed the path avoided the pubs and headed for the path along the sea front. The rain and wind increased, so we headed for what might have been the coast path slightly inland. We did see one coast path sign on this route as we entered Dawlish, but then we had to guess the route again. I stopped to take a photo as we climbed our first hill of the day out of Dawlish.

We had walked along the sea front side of the railway in the this photo, however, high on a post next to here was a sign pointing along the land side. The Marine Tavern is one those buildings pointing seaward above, so we had to go back for the second time in the day. Dartmoor's Jail Ale (4.8%) and an Otter Ale (4.5%) for £6.60 with a couple of pasties helped us to dry out a little. They were doing a reasonable deal of a pint and a pasty for £4.50 as well.

Back up the hill, on and off the main road, until we saw a sign directing us down a hill towards the coast path. It also said that it was not passable at high tide. We hoped that it wasn't high tide yet and went down the hill. The sea was splashing onto the steps as we went under the railway line and back onto the sea wall, but it wasn't quite high water yet. It had stopped raining now as we walked to Teignmouth. No pubs on the front there, so we decided to take the ferry across to Shaldon.

We had the ferry to ourselves. There is a Ferryboat Inn in Shaldon, but just the wrong side of the ferry landing point. The building in the middle of the above picture is the Ness, a Badger and Woodhouse pub. So it was a couple of nice pints of Badger (4%) and Hopping Hare (4.5%) for £6.95. Then it was up a hill again for a view back to Teignmouth.

The next three miles were up and down muddy paths and so we decided to call it a day when we reached Maidencombe. We went up the hill to the main road and caught a bus back to Teignmouth Station. The trains were in a bit of a mess and we were quite late getting home.

Sidmouth to Exmouth

2/6/12 £6! We parked in the station at Digby and Sowton. No, I didn't know about it either. It is near M5 J30 and we had the free car park practically to ourselves. The bus stop for the service to Sidmouth is just a couple of hundred yard down the road. But it was £6 for a single, 30 minute, 10 mile trip to Sidmouth!

Rain was forecast for the afternoon, so we were walking by 10:20. Initially I thought that we were going to bypass the first hill as we walked along the front under some cliffs, but then the long climb started. Then it was mostly downhill to Ladram Bay holiday park. As we approached, we saw a bar and restaurant, but as we rounded it there was a sign on the side saying the Three Rocks.

Sounds enough like a pub, so in we went. Pints of Otter Ale (4.5%) and Amber (4%) for £6.50 sitting on a balcony overlooking the bay. Then it was on towards Budleigh Salterton. This heads inland for a stretch along the River Otter. We grabbed a couple of pasties, but no pubs on the front. So it was on to Exmouth via Sandy Bay. It is quite a long seafront at Exmouth and at the very start was the last Coastpath sign that we saw for the day.

The Bath House used to be called something else, the Deer Leap I think. A pint of Greene King IPA (3.8%) and Old Speckled Hen (4.5%) for £5.90 in a fairly typical family seafront pub.

The Grove is slightly more upmarket. Pleasant Oxford Ales Churchill (4.5%) and a Youngs Waggle Dance (4%) for £6.50. We even indulged in some sausages for 50p a time.

The Beach is next to the harbour rather than the beach. Bass (4.4%) and Red White and Brew (4%) for £6.60. Seemed to be a locals place, but the beer wasn't that good. Just beyond the pub is the ferry to Starcross. No mention anywhere about the Coastpath in either direction though.

The train back towards Exeter was half the price of the bus.

Seaton to Sidmouth

26/5/12 A bus straight to our starting point won't happen very often. I doubt there will be a closer pub to the arrival point either.

The Vault Bar has one door on the front and one next to the bus stop. Two pints of Potholer (4.3%), the Spitfire was off, for £5.60 and game of pool were our pleasant starters for the day.

A few years ago, we had walked to Beer along the rocks. Being more sensible now, we stuck to path and soon descended for our second of the day.

The Anchor Inn nestles just above the beach. It was busy and the landlord hadn't enough time to change a barrel of his own beer. So we had two pints of Otter Bitter (3.6%) for £6.60.

Then it was onwards and upwards towards Branscombe. This section of the path hadn't been particularly mentioned as picturesque, but I was impressed.

The geological changes were obvious and made for an interesting backdrop. The undercliff section was more spectacular than the previous, more renown section.

We were hungry as we approached Branscombe. The cafe offered a relatively small pasty to take away for £3.95. I managed to resist that, but Sid couldn't. Then it was up and down a few times, including a small stretch actually on a beach. The last climb was particularly steep steps, but from there it was a gentle descent  to the footbridge over the Sid and along the front.

Dukes is set back from the front, but has a beer garden that opens onto it. We sat inside and had a Bays Springtime (4.5%) and Doom Bar (4%) for £6.70. Seemed more like a bar than a pub.

The Marine is a sports pub. There were various sports on different screens making it difficult to stand anywhere without blocking someone's view, so we played pool. We had a Break Water (4.6%) and Branoc (3.8%) for £6.60. The photo was taken as an after-thought as we hurried for the bus to Honiton after a hot day's walking.

Lyme Regis to Seaton

19/5/12 We started the day at the White Hart in Colyford waiting for the X53 connection to Lyme. The Wheelwright were cleaning their pipes. Once in Lyme we grabbed a sandwich and started along the modernised Marine Parade towards the Cobb. First pub was the Royal Standard.

Two more pints of Palmers Copper and Best for £6.70. It was a sunny day, so people were outside and the staff seemed happy. We had a game of pool. Just a few yard away is the Harbour Inn.

It's not as bad as it looks. For some reason, the Path goes along a back street here rather than the front. A pint of Tribute (4.2%) and Otter Ale (4.5%) for £6.60. Stay indoors and you're allowed proper glasses. Just a few more yards and we're at the Cobb Arms.

Again, there were more people out than in. Another game of pool to go with our Copper and Best again for £6.70, but it did feel a bit more like a pub.

Then the walking bit. We had been waiting for some reasonable weather as this 'undercliff' stretch is supposed to be a bit muddy, slippy etc. We found it ok. There were signs warning of the nature of the walk and a duration of three to four hours. There are occasional glimpses of both the sea and the cliff, but most of the route is through trees.

We emerged at the other end some two and a half hours later despite stopping four times for Sid to do some watering. Descending through an empty golf course, we crossed the river Axe and then along the front at Seaton.

Just time for one in the Hook and Parrot before the last bus home. A Green King IPA (3.6%) and Doom Bar for £5.60. It seemed a bit quiet, but I guess it was Saturday tea time.

Seatown to Lyme Regis

21/04/12 A wet April. I checked the forecast just in case and it looked like we might get away with. A late call to Sid and we went for it. We parked in Chideock again and could here the thunder moving away in the distance as we walked along the lane towards Seatown and then up the signposted diversion towards Golden Cap.

Portland Bill had been in our sights for a long time and Golden Cap had been the next target. This looking back towards Chesil Beach

and this looking forward to Charmouth, Lyme Regis and Devon.

Approaching Charmouth, there were notices about another diversion. We came across the landslip, but carried on as the alternative was not obvious. We knew that there was a major diversion inland between Charmouth and Lyme Regis, but had hoped the beach might have been an alternative. It didn't look like it, so inland we went passing the A35 roundabout at the entrance to Charmouth for the second out of four times that day. No pub on the path yet. We passed through the golf course and then descended into Lyme Regis.

As we approached the sea front we found our first ale houses of the day.

The Pilot Boat was more of an eating place. Palmers Copper Ale (3.7%) and 200 (5%) for £6.75. Sid has had enough Palmers now. The Rock Point Inn had a few more drinkers in it. The only Real option was two pints of Sharps Spring Cask Pilsner (4.2%) for £6.30, which were quite refreshing.

Then it was time for the X53 back to Chideock and the short journey home.