Looe to Polruan

27/10/12 A sunny but chilly day for this trip. Another train from TVP with a Ride Cornwall ticket taking us to Looe. The Swan Inn and Harbour Moon weren't open at 10:30 and so we partook of a couple of hot pasties and waited outside the Swan Inn.

One local beat us through the door, but £6 pints of Doom (4%) and Tribute PA (4.2%) later and we staggered back out into the daylight. It was only 11:17. Crossing Looe's bridge, the Harbour Moon still wasn't open and so we decided to carry on to see what was ahead. Up on the seaward facing side of West Looe is Tom Sawyers Tavern.

It didn't look particularly pub-like from the outside, but was more so inside. Just one chap in again with a coffee for himself and bowl of water for his dog. We had more Doom (4%) and Tribute PA (4.2%) for £6.40 this time. Then it was back to the Harbour Moon for the third time.

After waiting outside for a pub to open again, we have the place to ourselves at midday. Another Doom (4%) and a Jail Ale (4.8%) for £6.60. Then it was time to do some walking. The route was a bit more up and down than I was expecting. We passed a place that looked like it might be a pub in Talland Bay, but admitted to only being a licensed cafe. Soon we were in the narrow streets of the well hidden Polperro. We pass places that look like they might have once been pubs before having to wander around looking for coast path signs to make sure a couple are on it. The Three Pilchards is.

The inside is in keeping with the out, being small and quaint. It was quite busy. Pints of Sharps Own (4.4%) and Timothy Taylor Landlord (4.3%) for £6.90. Not far away is the Blue Peter Inn.

There are plenty of tourists looking for their cottages on this half-term changeover day. This pub is busier than the last. Sharps Red (4.1%) and Polperro Pride (4.6%). Time for a new beer mat to help my insole. The path continues up steps directly behind the pub. We know that we have to press on now to reach Polruan in time for the ferry to the bus for the last train home. It is fairly undulating, but the ground is as good as it has been for some time. The nature of some of the gateways change to become more rugged.

We pass five posts about half mile apart. The first two say 3.5 miles to Polruan, the next 4 miles, next 3.5 again and then last one 1.75 miles. We are therefore happy when we eventually get to see the outskirts of the  village itself. It is another village with narrow streets and holiday makers looking for their accommodation. The Russel Inn is in one of those narrow streets.

They're getting ready for Halloween inside with just a couple in. Proper Job (4.5%) and Tribute PA (4.2%) for £6.45. The scheduled ferry time that I was working to was 17:50. We get there at 17:38. No sign of the ferry. The Lugger Inn is next to the jetty. We decide to go in. Another place celebrating Halloween with a few more customers this time. Another Proper Job (4.5%) and Dartmoor Ale (3.6%) for £5.90.

17:48 we come out just as the ferry leaves. We watch the ferry get to the other side and come back. We finally get to Fowey ten minutes late and rush up the hill looking for the bus stop. The bus passes us going in the other direction. We carried on up the hill hoping that the bus would come back the same way. Fortunately it did and then deposited us at Par station for the train home.

Whitsand Bay to Looe

13/10/12 No pub at the start of this leg meant that we could start earlier. We used Plymouth P+R and Kingsand bus to get to Whitsand Bay holiday park by 10:30. The path seems to go along Military Road through Freathy. It was near low tide and the beaches looked pristine below.

The path took us through the firing ranges around Tregantle Fort. There were showers around, which was perhaps keeping people off the path, but we were managing to avoid them at this stage. We went through the busy golf course at Portwrinkle not really knowing which way to be looking, but I'm not sure the golfers knew either. After climbing our first steep hill for a while, we could see Looe Island, which gave a good idea of how far we had to go.
Entering Downderry, the signs gave us an option of a coastal route or alternative inland one. I knew that there was a pub in the village, but wasn't sure where. We went onto the beach.

The Inn on the Shore doesn't break the trades description act. There is a path up from the beach and it does have a pleasant looking terrace. We sat inside and had a pint of Doom (4%) and Tribute PA (4.2%) for £7.10. It is expensive, but the beer was good. Back on the beach, we walked to Seaton where the Smugglers Inn was just off the path. We then had a few more hills, through Millendreath and onto Looe. The path heads inland avoiding the beach at Looe and comes out onto the main thoroughfare at Ye Olde Salutation Inne.

Two pints of Doom (4%) for £6.20 were consumed as we watched our first shower of the day. There seemed to be a reasonable turnover of clients here and at the Ship Inn opposite.

We perhaps dwelled a little too long over two pints of Trelawney (3.8%) for £5.90 and decided to get a pasty before heading to the bus stop. The bus back to Plymouth was more expensive than I'd hoped.

Plymouth to Whitsand Bay

6/10/12 Drove to Ivybridge, then bus to Plymouth for this one. We walked from the city centre towards the Cremyll ferry and passed Sippers.

It had been shut on our previous visit. It was open this time, but we were the only customers and it did feel more like a restaurant. When a couple came in to ask for directions to our ferry, the answer sounded misleading. After our two pints of Doom (4%) for £6.20, we went off in a similar direction. The couple joined the ferry queue after us. The other side of the water is the Edgecumbe Arms.

We had pints of Trelawney (3.8%) and Proper Job (4.5%) for £6.50 and sat at the water's edge in the sunshine looking back towards the dockyard. Our walk started through the ornate gardens of Mount Edgecumbe country park. Looking through the trees, we caught one last view of Plymouth's waterfront.

A couple of miles later we approached the village of Kingsand. I wasn't expecting the Rising Sun to be on the path, but the sign said otherwise.

It was quite busy and we had pints of Sharp's Red Ale (4.1%) and Skinners Heligan Honey (4%) for £6.20. Further down the hill in the village centre near the sea front is the Halfway House.

We were the only customers here and the beer, Doom (4%) and Betty Stoggs (4%) for £6, was not brilliant. It was quite dark inside, but they did have a telly on which kept us awake. Moving on around the narrow streets, we came to Cawsand.

The Cross Keys is in the centre. There were a few people here in the autumn sunshine We had Kernow King (4.3%) and Beer Rocks' Scary (4.4%) again for £6, but they were again a little disappointing. An expensive pasty from the local shop later, we set off towards Rame Head. The coast path usually cuts the corner at these promontories, but there were no signs telling us do so this time. So we went up to the old chapel. This is looking back towards Bolt Head.

And this is looking forwards to Dodman Point, probably.

From here, we enter Whitsand Bay. The path goes up and own amongst the many chalets built on the hillside overlooking the bay. There is a road along the top that the bus route follows. Having visited more pubs than anticipated, we were running behind schedule and didn't make it as far along this road as I had hoped. This was exacerbated by a long stop in Plymouth before catching the next bus back to the car.

Plymouth

20/9/12 A Thursday trip to Plymouth. We knew that this could be messy and so we were kindly driven to TVP for the train. A walk past some of my old college haunts ensued as we made our way to Cattedown Wharf. There we found our biggest sign to date.

It's not really at that angle, but I was perched on the ridge of the wall. Coxside cannot claim to be the posh end of Plymouth, but they have spent money around it. The yellow building below used to be our seamanship centre.

Land has since been reclaimed around it for the marina and aquarium. Most of the Barbican's pubs are missed by the path. The only one on it is the Admiral MacBride.

A pint of Doom (4%) and Thatchers Heritage (4.9%) for £6.60. We were tempted by a quiet pub lunch here, but decided to move on. Fisher's Nose is a bar now. We carried on around the Hoe. Down the other end is the Waterfront, which used to a bar/restaurant.

The sign claimed it was a pub, so we went in. It wasn't really, so we sat outside at the water's edge. Pints of Proper Job (4.5%) and Tribute PA (4.2%) for £7.20. It was at this point that I realised that I was no longer in possession of my return train ticket. I returned to the above photo point to see if it was there that it dropped out, but no. Sid was amused. Round the corner is the West Hoe.

A few locals in here. We had two pints of Dartmoor Legend (4.4%) for £6.40 and a game of pool. Next we went past a place called Sippers that was shut (see next post). Then at the Naval end of town is the Butchers Arms, which was even more shut. We thought that Victualling Office was also shut.

Sid tried the door and the VOT was open. Two pints of Jail Ale (4.8%) for £6.20 and another game of pool. Nearby is the Vine Hotel.

It is a stone's throw from the ferry jetty. A pint of Bays Gold (4.7%) and Happy Days, I think, (4.2%) for £6. Another game of pool and even one from a friendly young lady.

Then we went to Wetherspoons on Union Street for something to eat and Noahs Ark before the train back for skittles. The Devon Evening Ranger ticket allowed me to get home for a fiver.

Wembury to Cattedown

18/9/12 We wanted to fit some more walks in while the going was still good and so we did this one on a Tuesday. Parking the car in Plymstock, it was the bus that took us to Wembury. It was about one and a half miles down the hill to the ferry crossing for the start of the walk.

Then we retraced the last bit and started back down the Yealm. Wembury beach was busy with schoolchildren, but we weren't tempted by the 117 mile shortcut to Lynmouth.

Heybrook Bay was next where we could see the pub, but it wasn't on the path. A few naval ships started to appear and we had this view of Plymouth breakwater which is different to the usual aspect from the Hoe.

That view was from the pleasant beach at Bovisand. Every corner we went around, we could see a little more of Plymouth until eventually we reached Mount Batten.

Then we turned up the river Plym and pass various boatyards, marinas and bars/restaurants. On entering Turnchapel we spotted a notice telling us of a diversion of the footpath. This probably by-passed two pubs, but rejoined at the Royal Oak.

It was unsurprisingly quiet for a Tuesday afternoon in September, but at least it was open. In fact it was quite cheery and we had two pleasant 6X (4.3%) for £6.20. Then it was round the sewage works and down to Hooe Lake.

From here it was on through Radford to Oreston where the Kings Arms was shut. So it was on past some more light industrial places to Laira Bridge where the Morley Arms was also shut. So we decided to walk on a bit further around some of the glamorous light industrial units towards Cattedown wharf. By then we thought that the pubs should be opening and so we returned to Laira Bridge. The Morley Arms had just opened.

We had a Brains Morgans Organ (4%) and Morlands Original (4%) for £6.60. Again two nice pints in a distinctive pub. The landlord was unhappy with the council's roadworks and let us know. Then it was back to the Kings Arms.

Another nice pub in a nice location, even if it had been modernised. A pint of Tribute PA (4.2%) and Butcombe (4%) for £6.20 later it was time to head home. As it happens, it was just a mile or so up Plymstock Road to the car.

Mothecombe to Noss Mayo

15/9/12 Tuesdays are the only day to bus this one, so it was on the bikes for us. We parked in Noss Mayo and then cycled towards the Erme. No pubs were passed and so a detour to do both of them in Holbeton before parking the bikes and having pasties in Mothecome tea room. Then the walk down to the crossing before starting the walk.

Mothecombe beach was a pleasant spot in the sunshine. Then it was on through a few fields

and up and down a few hills for the first half of the walk. After Stoke Beach, the path became a track and we made much quicker time. Soon, we rounded the headland and started up the Yealm estuary.

It was the usual estuary walk of a gradual descent through woods to a village ferry crossing. The next photo was taken from the small ferry jetty.

We then kept walking to the Ship Inn in Noss Mayo before retrieving the bikes from the now closed tea room.

Bigbury to the Erme

8/9/12 We parked in Kingston and cycled to Mount Folly Farm via the pub in Bigbury. We then had to walk down to the ferry point.

That is on the left of the picture. It also shows Bantham and the beaches. We then retraced our steps before descending towards Burgh Island and Bigbury-on- Sea. The tide was nearly out and the beach was busy. We continued to Challaborough and came across this sort of pub.

 

In the Waterfront we had two Betty Stoggs (4%) for £6.40. It was more like a bar. We bought some Dorset pasties nearby. We had few ups and downs after this,

but it was a relatively short walk before we rounded the corner into the Erme estuary. The tide was out and so when we arrived at Wonwell beach, we decided to wade across.

This was on the way back.

By the time our feet were dry, we were halfway up the hill to Kingston. The pub was shut and so we went to the Pilchard Inn on Burgh Island for a pint.

Salcombe to Bantham

1/9/12 Parked in Salcombe park and ride and walked to town. The first pub wasn't difficult to spot. The Ferry Inn had Copper Ale (3.7%) and Best IPA (4.2%) for £6.90. There are various levels to the pub, but we stayed outside overlooking the water. Salcombe is an expensive area. I took the photo in a hurry because Sid was posing.

The path goes past North and South Sands as it heads towards Bolt Head. Before that we passed Sharp Tor

to the sound of a yacht hitting rocks below as it returned from Starehole Bay. It was able to continue to Salcombe. The path was quite busy, but the going wasn't too bad and Soar Mill Cove looked a very nice remote beach. Eventually we reached Bolt Tail and descended to Hope Cove.

The Hope and Anchor Inn is slightly set back from the front. We had a Dartmoor Best (3.5%) and Proper Job (4.5%) for £6.75. It was relatively quiet. We went over the road for a couple of pasties before continuing towards Thurlestone. The path was easier going now. After passing the golf course we headed for Bantham. The beach looked nice there as well and it was busy. We walked through the car park and went as far as the ferry jetty in the village.

Then we walked back to Thurlestone for a pleasant pint before catching the bus to Malborough and then another one to Salcombe.

Torcross to East Portlemouth

25/8/12 A bank holiday Saturday drive to East Portlemouth went well. We parked up the hill in the village and set off across the top of hills on our bikes to Torcross. Another pint in the Start Bay Inn and pasty from the post office set us up for the walk.

Up the hill, we can see back to this. Then it was soon down the other side to Beesands. It looked a nice place and relatively unspoilt. The Cricket Inn though was a bit too snooty with many empty reserved tables. Tribute PA and Otter Ale for £7.60.

The showers came and went and we didn't get too wet as we were sheltered from the westerly wind. We had a look at the remains of Hallsands and then continued on to Start Point. This is another of those conspicuous points that had lurked in the distance for a few walks.

As we skirted round Start Point, the terrain became a lot more rugged and as we rounded another hill, we started to lose our protection from the wind and rain. Lannacombe beach and car park were busy with lots of people in wet suits, but not much surfing going on. The rain kept falling without getting too heavy. We were soaked, but I thought that this was one of the most scenic stretches that we've done. We passed Prawle Point  and it was still wet and rugged, but parts of Salcombe were starting to appear.

Eventually we reached the beaches of East Portlemouth and the rain stopped. We went down to the ferry jetty and then up the long flight of steps to the village. We picked the bikes up and stopped for an expensive pint at California Cross on the way home as we tried to dry out.